L'entraînement sur poutre d'escalade : Optimisez votre performance

Training on <tc>Climbing hangboard</tc> : Optimize your performance

If you've been on a climbing wall to climb for a few moments, you've probably already felt your forearms tetanize under the effort. Climbing requires, among other things, strength, precision and endurance. To reach new heights and climb harder, training on a Climbing hangboard can quickly become essential. Climbing hangboards, also called climbing training boards or bars , allow you to improve your strengths and weaknesses, and progress more quickly while reducing the risk of injury. Here's what you'll learn in this article:
  • The benefits of specific climbing training
  • How to choose the right training exercise according to my goals ?
  • Why train on a Climbing hangboard ?
  • How to train on a Climbing hangboard to climb better ?
  • Is there a miracle exercise to progress very quickly in climbing ?

    The benefits of specific climbing training

    Climbing-specific training involves performing targeted, purposeful exercises to improve key skills needed for climbing. We can think about improving our strength, our endurance, but also our technique, our mobility, our mentality or even certain very specific muscles. These exercises can be performed by climbing or using tools like climbing hangboards and keeping your feet on the ground.

    Not everyone needs to practice, it depends on your practice. Training is not a goal in itself, it is a powerful tool for progression. If you have long-term climbing goals, if you want to be a good climber in all styles or if you want to more easily prevent injuries, specific training may be the solution.

    The benefits of targeted training are multiple. First, it delivers measurable results because you focus on specific areas of your fitness. This allows you to track your progress and see concrete improvements.
    Another benefit is saving time. Unlike climbing sessions that follow one another and are similar, a targeted workout can be short but effective, which also leaves you more time for fun climbing. A person who does 4 big sessions per week with always the same objective of doing harder blocks in each session, may progress less quickly in strength than you who only do 2 sessions per week but with precise, short and precise training in parallel. effective. This also prevents fatigue from long sessions and allows you to maintain a better life balance.
    Finally, targeted training reduces the risk of injury by working on specific areas that can be weak points, such as the shoulders, elbows or wrists. This allows you to improve your strength and endurance with less risk of injury, which is crucial for sustainable progress.

    To summarize:

    • Practicing works! Climbing-specific training  helps measure progress and target specific skills.
    • Training can save you time: Short but effective workouts allow you to climb more for fun.
    • Less risk of injury: By strengthening weak areas, you reduce the risk of fatigue-related injuries.


    How to choose the right training exercise according to my goals ?

    To choose the right training exercise for your goals, it is important to understand the key elements that define each exercise. These are exercise type, volume, and intensity. These three criteria help determine if this exercise will help you achieve your goals, whether it is improving your strength, endurance, mobility or climbing technique.
    • Type of exercise : Think about what you want to improve. If you want to improve your pulling strength, it is better to do small repetitions with maximum weight and plenty of rest time. If it is rather endurance that we are aiming for, there will be more repetitions and less rest time but we will also have to be less weighted. Flexibility and technique can also be types of exercises to work towards your goals.
    • Volume: Volume refers to the total number of repetitions, sets, or time spent training. High volume may indicate a focus on endurance, while lower volume with heavy weights may be focused on strength.
    • Intensity: Intensity measures the level difficulty of each exercise. To build strength, you can add weight. To increase endurance, you maintain an average intensity but extend the exercise time.
    When choosing exercises, keep your goals in mind. To progress, find the balance between these three elements and try to integrate these exercises into a thoughtful and balanced routine. We then speak of a program or training plan. A good program should be adaptable, taking into account your level, your current fitness level and your aspirations.


    Why train on a Climbing hangboard ?

    The Climbing hangboard is a real Swiss army knife for any climber because it is an excellent way to develop all the physical qualities of what keeps you clinging to the walls: your fingers, arms and back. Here are some reasons why training on a hangboard can be beneficial:
    • Best on all points: The hangboard allows you to work on finger strength, but also on their endurance and resistance. It's one of the most effective tools for this and you just need to hang on to it.
    • Targeting Weaknesses: The hangboard allows you to work on different grip types which can help you be a better climber in different climbing styles, but also reduce risk injury.
    • Intensity control: You can adjust the difficulty of the exercises according to your progress using elastic bands or a pulley system. This also makes training on hangboard accessible to all levelx.
    • Practicality: With a hangboard at home, you can train at any time  easily.
    Overall, training on a Climbing hangboard helps you effectively improve the majority of skills that keep you hanging. In addition, we can really be very precise in our exercises and progress at our own pace.

    How to train on a Climbing hangboard to climb better ?

    You will find below some exercise ideas based on your level and your goals, but first some basic rules for best training on a Climbing hangboard:

    • Warm-up: Before you begin, make sure you warm up well, as you would before a climbing session. Just holding different holds s with both hands without hanging on them is a good start. Then gradually intensify your suspensions by taking time. This prepares your muscles and joints and reduces the risk of injury.
    • Avoid arches: It is advisable to stay on holds in a straight or semi-arched position to protect the finger joints.
    • Start slowly: Don't rush into the most difficult exercises. Start by hanging with your feet on the floor or using a chair to offload some of your weight.
    • Use of elastic bands: To reduce the weight supported by your fingers and increase the duration of suspensions without overloading, use elastic bands. This allows you to adapt the resistance and progress at your own pace without risking injury.
    • Recovery: After each session, take time to recover. This may include light stretching or simply resting to allow your muscles to regenerate.

    Exercise ideas on hangboard

    • For beginners

    If you are starting climbing, what you need most is to learn and understand the gestures associated with the practice: proprioception, foot placement, rest positions, clipping of quickdraws. Climbing efficiently will help you progress very quickly from the start! But at some point progress on this point will slow down and you will then be able to think about starting to improve your physique. Here is a simple exercise that allows you to gradually improve your climbing level :
        1. Choice of holds: Choose holds large enough to hold comfortably for at least 10 seconds. Don't hesitate to relieve yourself with an elastic band if necessary.
        2. Performing the exercise: Do 3 to 5 repetitions of 10 sec suspensions with 1 minute of rest between each.
        3. Progression: Increase the hang time or decrease the size of holds. You can perform this exercise 1 to 2 times a week.

      • For experienced climbers

      Exercise “Max Finger Strength”:

        1. Choice of holds: Choose a strip 10 to 20 mm deep on which you can hang for about 10 seconds. If you can hold on longer you can add ballast. The closer the ruler is to 10mm, the more we will specifically work on holding the small ones holds. The closer it is to 20mm, the more the Grip strength will work on a greater variety of holds.
        2. Performing the exercise: Perform between 4 and 8 suspensions of 6 to 8 seconds each, taking at least 3 minutes of rest between each suspension to allow your muscles to recover.
        3. Perform this exercise twice a week at most.


      Exercise “Max Force Pull-ups”

      Do three to five sets of weighted pull-ups for a maximum of  6 to 8 repetitions before progressing to weight bearing. Perform this exercise twice a week as much as possible.

      Exercise Work on forearm endurance:

      1. Choice of holds : Select holds that allow you to hold comfortably for more than 20 seconds with both hands.
      2. Performing the exercise: Alternate 20 seconds of hanging with both hands with 40 seconds of rest. Repeat this sequence as many times as possible, without exceeding 6 to 7 minutes in total.
      3. Organization of the session: Do 2 to 3 rounds of this sequence, with a long break of 5 to 7 minutes between each round. The actual work volume must be between 2 and 7 minutes.
      4. Progression: To increase intensity, move to 30 seconds of suspension followed by 30 seconds of rest. For the more experienced, try 40 seconds of hanging followed by 20 seconds of rest to increase forearm congestion

          Is there a miracle exercise to progress very quickly in climbing ?

          There is no miracle exercise to progress very quickly in climbing. What works for some may not necessarily work for others. The key lies in a balanced and diversified approach. It's important to understand your own needs and limitations, and have a workout that matches your goals. Effective climbing training relies on perseverance, variety of exercises, and adaptation to your own abilities and weaknesses.

          Conclusion

          To optimize your climbing performance, training on hangboard is a key tool. The variety of exercises allows you to target specific skills like finger strength, upper body power and endurance. By following thoughtful, structured training, you can measure your progress and adjust your exercises based on your goals.
          To get the most out of training on hangboard, plan your sessions with care and focus on quality over quantity. Adapt the exercises to your needs and alternate routines to progress in a balanced way. This will optimize your performance while reducing the risk of injury.
          — Noé YDAIS
          Tagged: adaptation de l'entraînement endurance entraînement spécifique entraînement sur poutre escalade exercices tractions force des doigts intensité de l'entraînement poutre d'escalade et débutant progression des grimpeurs puissance haut du corps
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